Tuesday, August 13, 2013

Weather and Plants


Driving around I noticed the hot weather
affecting plants.

Ash trees are really suffering from anthracnose
on the leaves and general water stress.

A lot oak trees are showing leaf stress and leaf burn
from the four weeks of 90-100 degree weather.

Wetland rushes are looking stressed.
Douglas fir and many cedar trees are running out
of water and showing tip die back from lack of water.


Monday, August 12, 2013

Good growing weather continues.
Watch watering as the evapo transpiration is high.
Blackberries ripening nicely.
Tomatoes turning red.
Corn- coming ion nicely.
Blueberries - mostly done.

Squash and pumpkins doing well now.
Apples and pears ripening.




Thursday, August 8, 2013

Weekly ag report


Hazelnuts sizing nicely.  Looks like the world
carryover and the expected crop world wide
will be down.
Looks like Oregon's crop this year will almost
be as big as last year.  Nut yields being estimated
the next two weeks.
Blueberry crop - off to market except for
 small acreage.
So far less Spotted Wing Drosophila this year.

NEW CRITTER:  The brown marmorated
stink bug has been IDed in most of the I-5 counties.
Web:  http://horticulture.oregonstate.edu/group/brown-marmorated-stink-bug-oregon

Local fresh markets doing well.  Crops being
early this year.
Warm season crops - still not doing well due to
either too hot or too cool in the AM temps.

Monday, August 5, 2013


Good growing weather continues.
Flea beetle populations seem to be going down.

Blueberries - coming to a close but some will
ripen until October, call growers to see if they
have late blueberries.

Picked a ripe Bartlett pear today, yeah.

Early Gravenstein and Lodi apples -
done in another week.  Early peaches
near being done.

Figs ripe and very large this year.  Second
crop nickle size, may get a second crop
with the added summer heat.

Wild blackberries - nice production.

Italian prunes - ripe in one week.




Saturday, August 3, 2013

More newer stuff

Today at the Master Gardener Plant diagnostic specialist tour we saw a few more non normal, newer sightings.  We found grape leaves with the fairly common but unique erinium mite which causes a bump on the top of the grape leaf, and the under portion is a white or brown fuzz.  The very small mite is under the fuzz.

On a quince tree, we saw what looked alike a very possible fire blight on a quince.  Fire blight is NOT suppose to be here so we will need to have it ID'ed at OSU.

The oaks  leaves  in the Veneta area are turning red and brown.  Upon closer look, there are small leaf galls in high numbers on the leaves.  The hot 100 degree weather has caused the oak galls areas to turn reddish brown.

Thursday, August 1, 2013


More spotted wing drosophila finds, but still low for the year.
Brassica's still bolting.
Finding a lot of clubroot in Brassica plants.
Gravenstein apples - ripe.
Bartlett pears - sizing nicely.
Blueberries - end in sight.

Grass seed fields being plowed an prepped.
Hazelnuts - sizing really good, looks like a lot of big nuts.

Grapes - sizing nicely, powdery mildew still an issue.

The misty rain on Thursday = scab on summer apples as it was warm and wet.

Flea beetles and stripped cucumber beetles, out in high numbers.

BRASSICA PROBLEMS

Brassica plants are already bolting or going to seed problems this year. 

Now an even worse situation has occured.  Two community gardens in the Eugene, Oregon area now have very bad clubroot;  which affects most of the Brassica family, especially cabbage and broccoli.

http://pnwhandbooks.org/plantdisease/cabbage-and-cauliflower-brassica-sp-clubroot

Note the clubbing of the roots.


The micro organisms can last up to 18 years and this is a big deal where we grow a LOT of Brassicas's here summer and winter.

The web site has cultural methods to help slow down the micro organism.

Other suggestions:

Lime the soil heavily.
Do NOT remove or move ANY soil.
Do not place the diseased plants into any compost piles.
Don't till the soil, which would move the infected soil around the garden.
If found, lay carpet or cardboard down so to not track ANY soil from the infected plot.
For the next few years, just use a garden fork to get the soil ready for planting.

Concentrate or grow Brassicas in one area so the disease, when and if found can be limited to one area, rather than the the whole garden plot.